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Locally, there was a “pogo stick” used.  Basically a 4″ ball beater run by a 20 hp. compressor.   I bought a 22.5 lb (equivalent to a 35lb) Bosch Demolition Hammer with a 5″ square compactor face in addition to the chisel.   Initial compaction was best done with me pulling the decomposed granite in hard by hand.  I got good inflation this way.  Then more dirt and large rubber mallets, then small sledge hammers, then the 8lb. sledge.  Then fill several times with the Bosch giving road base type compaction (in fact I used it below the first course for more soil compaction).  Every other tire, every other course was soil-cement filled(2K PSI tested) with vertical rebar scraps that overlapped 9″,  As each course was packed, 2x10s and ripped plywood screwed to the tires on the outside and expanded metal lathe screwed to the tires thru large washers or plywood scrap pieces, all leveled with a laser level marking the rebar with nail polish and hand leveling from there.  Into this was poured soil cement, with aluminum cans after the 3rd course in the voids and half tires formed. They also had rocks and metal scrap put in for non-weakening fill.  The top where tires didn’t show was scratched with a notched trowel.  The next day the forms were taken off and a new course or continuation of a course started.   This allowed weatherproof and stable construction.  I have heard of tire walls falling, and seen them way out of line and plumb.   I used a 7 1/4 x 11″ w/2 horizontal rebar tied in to bent over vertical pieces with a 2×8 greenplate on top inside or outside flush.  I used gradually decreasing tire sizes and went from a 1′ in 16′ radius to 6″ so straight bond beams could be used.  I used real concrete at  the major beam bearing points and bond beams and top 1″ of dyed concrete floor with 1’x1′ cuts to simulate tile(slip formed).  Slip form garden walls with cans and rebar verticals and two horizontals.  I used a 2×6 with 2×2 15* ripped key with holes for the rebar, on the long wall section.  Catchment came through the top course with plastic small  bubble wrap taped around for contraction/expansion, and 4″ ABS drain from galv. gutters with screens to the 425 gallon tank inside on a platform.  The roof plywood had several coats of acrylic roofing with screen strips laying in at all joints.   The darkest color they had was tan.  The catchment system eventually gets ice blocked every winter but the water lasts for the gardens.  I use an insulated roof vent rather than less insulated and kind of useless skylights.  The main thing about it is that it needs a way to dehumidify with vents or an electric one allowed for with the solar or wind, or combo system.  Also, it is a mistake to use anything but modern new windows for the front wall.  Any more questions, I visit on occasion.